After 3 fantastic days in the desert oasis of Garmeh, we headed off to Yazd, the center of Zoroastrian culture and distinct ancient desert architecture in Iran. Taking the taxi in from the bus station, we already had a good feel for what the next days would have in store. The sprawling old town was made completely of mud and mud brick, and our taxi had a hard time maneuvering through the tiny covered lanes.
We checked into yet another spectacular Iranian building, Kohan Hotel. hotels in Iran are typically converted old homes that center around a beautiful garden courtyard and Kohan was one of the most spectacular places we had seen so far. The central courtyard was massive and ideal for spending our afternoons blogging. This was the place for us!
That night we did what we did many days in Yazd. We walked around the old town and got lost in the numerous lanes and tunnels that make up the ancient city. The smooth mud walls and caves slowly changed to a golden brown colour as the sun sunk low in the sky. For sunset, we headed to the roofing system of our hotel where we viewed a beautiful display of oranges and pinks paint the sky above the city.
Each rooftop has an ancient air-conditioning structure which consists of an extra tower, with large vertical slots that capture the breeze and force it down into the homes below. A ideal desert cooling system known as a Bagdir.
A Rooftop Bagdir
We happened to time or visit in Iran to coincide with the largest annual religious ceremony in the Shia Islamic calendar, Ashura. men and women took to the streets in a very interesting display of mourning for the death of Imam Hussein. read much more about It Here.
Mr. Lorian
Despite the intense religious fervor, we were able to find a guide who was prepared to peel himself away from the nation-wide sorrow to take us for a trip to some surrounding sites. Our guide’s name was Mr.Lorian and he was an animated, friendly and incredibly informative Zoroastrian local.
“Zoroastrians believe that the devil only exists in the human mind”
-Mr.Lorian
Mr.Lorian took us to the major sites around Yazd. first up was the mud caravanserai of Kharanaq. We got out of the car and wandered around an interesting, 1000-year-old maze of mud walls. Kharanaq was like a tiny version of Yazd that has been left to decay over the past 50 years, when the locals up and moved to “the new city”, where they delight in modern comforts like running water and satellite TV.
Beautiful Kharanaq
After Kharanaq we headed to Chak Chak, an ancient Zoroastrian pilgrimage site. Zoroastrianism is a pre-Islamic religion that was once the main faith in Iran. They pray at fire temples and have numerous stories, much like the tales in the bible. Chak Chak implies “drip drip” in Farsi and it is said that the water is the tears of the forgotten princess, who misses her family and cries eternally.
Mmm… delicious Princess Tears.
Last on our day trip from Yazd was the city of Meybod which has 2 major points of interest. One is the oldest mud structure in all of Iran, the Narin Castle. thought to be nearly 1800 years old, the castle was still in fantastic condition. We passed from view tower to view tower, taking in the outstanding views of the city.
View From Narin Castle
Also in Meybod was an ancient desert ice house. That’s right, ice in the desert! thought to be about 800 years old, the beehive-like structure was used to harvest ice even after the winter season frost had lifted. They funnelled water into the building and allowed it to freeze during winter, then they sealed it off until late may / early June, when they would reopen it to sell the ice! Amazingly it remained frozen because the air was kept so cool inside the mud enclosure.
After Meybod we drove back to Yazd where we delighted in another couple of days lazily wandering around the lanes. We spent 5 days in Yazd and we’re loving the fact that we’re travelling slower now. It’s been good to have 32 days in Iran, so that we can take our time and meet people along the way.
Next we’re off to the holy city of Kerman where we will head out to visit some really epic desert formations, as well as partake in Ashura, the fantastic Shia ceremony. stay tuned for pics of spectacular desert and shocking displays of self-flagellation.
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